By Janetta Mackay, The New Zealand Herald, 18/11/2009

The mood in hair is very free flowing, very natural,” says Greg Murrell from Ryder salon. But that doesn’t just mean letting it all hang out if you want to look pulled together at your next party. He says the up-do has come back into relevance, but in a looser, messier way.

Luckily, the award-winning stylist is happy to share some DIY tips on how to achieve that air of uncontrived elegance. Murrell says the secret to home-styling success is to choose one of four simple techniques to add interest for a special occasion. He recommends making a twist, braid, roll or ponytail as the foundation to your look. “Most party looks would come from one of those four things.”

By breaking down what you’re trying to do into manageable steps it will become easier to accomplish. Murrell says clean hair doesn’t “do much” so it’s important to create texture in the hair before you start creating a style. A volumising product is needed and this can be added in when hair is being dried, or afterward. (Murrell likes KMS Sculpting Lotion and says this is lighter than a mousse, but what to use depends on hair type and preference, it just shouldn’t weigh things down too much, instead giving lift and adding movement).

Tongs can be used to randomly create waves, by bending hair around the tong. For curls, he prefers using a proper curling iron to flat plates.

Having on hand a few inexpensive sectioning clips is another tip to help achieve a good finish. “You definitely need to work on areas one at a time.” Clipping back the areas you’ve yet to come to come to makes styling easier. Murrell says it’s best to begin working on the back by sectioning off the top pieces, then come to the front and top last.

The twist: Good secure pinning is the secret to making twists work. Take sections of hair and twist them round and backwards. Secure with a bobby pin to the place where you’ve created tension as you hold the hair. One side of the pin should go into the extended hair near the scalp and the other side into the hair end you’re holding. You shouldn’t need a lot of pins if you’re making loose twists and don’t be afraid to let pieces fall round the face. “Don’t overdress the hair,” says Murrell.

The braid: Because most women know how to plait or braid hair, this a good style to experiment with. Try to avoid pulling hair too tight. “What’s cool about braiding now, is not braiding the whole thing,” says Murrell, who used braids to good effect at the Stolen Girlfriends Club show at New Zealand Fashion Week.

Braids can be added at the side or top, creating a different texture from the loose hair. Twist them up and back and pin in place.

A single braid can be worked across the forehead or up from the ear or two roughly symmetrical braids pinned back and brought together at the ends.

The roll: A derivative of the classic French roll or pleat can be achieved by sectioning off hair, back brushing it, smoothing the surface, then rolling it down to the head and pinning it down. This takes a bit of practise, compared with the other looks on the page, but it’s an impressive and timeless style. Rolls can go from the back into the middle of the hair or from the top back.

Murrell used the rolled look for two Zambesi shows he worked on, one at Australian Fashion Week and the other for the label’s 30-year retrospective show in September. His website has a how-to at www.rydersalon.com

The ponytail: The ponytail is the easiest of all styles to play with. Set high, the ends can be wrapped round into a loose bun or set the tie low and twist the hair into a chignon. Left free, tong the pony into swinging shape. A messy look can be had by blasting hair with a hairdryer.

Short hair: Texture is key to making short hair interesting. Dry and volumise and use a finishing product to mould a shape. The heat from your hand will help create shape and movement, rather than just letting it fall flat.

The finishing touch:

Hairspray has its place for big occasion dressing, such as a wedding where you might want hair to stay in place all day, but for party styles, don’t go for anything too stiff or sticky. (Murrell likes to finish off with KMS California Dry Wax, which has a lightweight, pliable, matte hold.)

“It’s not a product-heavy time,” says Murrell.